How to build a pro-touring car
The term pro-touring has come up a lot lately. It seems like a lot of the builds that are coming out of shops nowadays are focused around this movement. Except for Street Outlaws, their fans and some good old boys, by and large the classic car scene has shifted toward this new class of car.
What makes a car pro-touring? What does a car built for professional touring look like? Well, the kind of car that goes on long trips needs some creature comforts. A heater and a hand brake won’t do here. This car needs air conditioning, a quiet ride, friendly suspension, real good tunes and it’s got to look good when it arrives. We’re seeing cars with aftermarket A/C being installed if it doesn’t have it. Tons of adjustable suspensions for double duty at the track and the freeway. I’ve definitely seen (and installed!) more exhaust cut outs to eliminate the cruising drone. Lots of these cars are getting fuel injection swaps for reliability and gas mileage. Classic cars with modern amenities like hydroboost brakes, full stereo systems, and complete chassis replacement. These aren’t our father’s classic cars. They’re actually a lot like last years sports coupes.. just with older blood.
I love pro-touring. I want to see more people restore, preserve and drive their classics. I think it’s the best way to enjoy them. I love building these cars, too. Today’s specimen is a 1967 Ford Mustang Convertible. It’s going into a cocoon to emerge as a beautiful example of how to make a car modern enough to be enjoyable all the time. The car is pretty unmolested, and it’s a great start to a super cool idea. The car is a factory convertible, with an original 6 cylinder, 3 speed drivetrain. It’s got no real options, pretty much down to a heater and a handbrake here. It’s got an aftermarket cassette tape player in place that’s made to look factory and it has been well maintained. The interior is still cushy and in excellent shape, as well as the top; a perfect car to upgrade for everyday driving.
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This particular car came in looking for an upgraded engine and transmission. We drew up a list of goals and desires and generated a proposal. We elected to install a fuel-injection engine and make it look as factory as possible. Ford made a small block Windsor engine all the way from 1962 to the late 1990s, and 302s can be found in Mustangs from 1968 until 1995. The first year fuel injection wasn’t until 1980, but the system was very lacking. By the time they were about to phase out the Windsor, they had gotten pretty good at making the little 302 efficient and powerful and you could find an engine anywhere. The puny, outdated C4 transmission that came in this 6 cylinder Mustang wouldn’t fit on the back of a V8 and it never would have stood up to the abuse. I would swap an engine and transmission mated pair, but had to ditch the original rear end, too. Again, components that speak 6 cylinder weren’t going to accept the scream of a modern small block with upgrades ready to punish tires. The bigger rear ends optioned for Mustangs were 5 lug instead of 4 lug. Great. Now the wheels don’t fit in the rear and the front lug pattern doesn’t match the rear. This must be how projects snowball. New front disc brakes are now on the workorder and so is a new master cylinder, since the rear brakes happened to be disc. Not that drums are bad, but they don’t turn kinetic energy into heat energy as well as discs. If we’re going to go fast, let’s be sure we can slow down safely.
The easiest way for me to get a project like this done is to buy a donor. Engine, check. Transmission, check. Rear end, check. Brakes, check. Wiring, check. Fuel system, check. Follow along, as I’ll walk you through how to transform a classic Mustang into a car that anyone can drive anywhere.
