Big Brake Upgrade: Pro-Touring Car Part 4
My friend Joe always tells me about his C10. He put a hopped up big block in the full size truck and was sliding through every intersection. Sure, he now had the power to get up to speed, but he couldn’t scrub it off in a safe manner. Four wheel drum brakes just couldn’t muster enough “whoa, boy!” to match the acceleration of the 406. He needed more braking power.
With great power comes great responsibility. That is most certainly true, but I would like to add with much power comes the need to arrest motion at a similar pace. Every car that experiences as thorough a build as this, should be developed as a package. No one wants their investment (or their day!) ruined by getting into an accident.
This particular Mustang came with manual drum brakes. Drums brakes are bad at turning kinetic energy into heat energy; their design just doesn’t expel enough heat. Disc brakes expose the friction surface to the air and have vents between each face of the rotor. Plus, these rotors are bigger than what could have come on a 1967 Mustang if it was ordered with the disc brake package, again for more stopping force. More aggressive engine, more aggressive brakes.
Disassembly is pretty straightforward. Remove the bearing cap, bearings and drum. Four spindle bolts hold the drum brake assembly onto the spindle.
1967 is a good candidate for a brake upgrade. In 1966, Ford made the 6 cylinder and V8 spindles the same. Every Mustang from then on could accept V8 option brakes without having to change the spindle out. Remove the drums, backing plate, wheel cylinders, brake hoses, and shoes as an assembly and discard.
Once you’re down to a bare spindle, the kit comes with the hub adapter to mount disc brake calipers onto the spindle. This piece gets installed behind the backing plate. It’s important to clean the mounting flange as well. Rust or debris will cause the adapter to sit crooked against the spindle. A clean surface works best for accuracy and safety.
These brakes are made by SSBC, and came with everything needed to make the change to front disc brakes. New mounting flange installed, and next I mounted the backing plate and installed new spindle hardware. Tighten to the correct torque. These backing plates help keep loose road scraps from getting into the brake assembly and wreaking havoc. They also serve to partially direct air into the disc brake rotor to keep temperatures down.
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The new rotors fit in the same style the drums originally did: with an inner and outer bearing and an inner wheel seal. I pumped the new wheel bearings full of grease and installed the rear wheel seal. After the spindle was clean, I needed to regrease it for the new wheel bearings.
I installed the new, larger rotor and outer wheel bearing, washer, spindle nut and cotter pin. The spindle nut torque is very specific and much lighter than most expect. Tight wheel bearings run hot and can fail. I always spin the rotor, and tighten the nut with the rotor in motion, then back it off to the next hole for the cotter pin. The new brake hoses replaced the worn out, cracked ones and screw directly into the caliper with a brand new crush washer.
The new caliper mounts with a little blue Loc-tite on each of the bolts and I slipped the new brake pads into place. The brake pad retaining clips do their job nicely and come with shiny new hardware to hold them down.
These are the kind of brakes that can do double duty at a track event and on a daily drive. They’ve got the extra leverage from oversized rotors and four pistons for stronger apply pressure at the friction surface. Now this is the right equipment to scrub off some speed! The pads aren’t so aggressive that you come to a direct halt when you think about braking, though. A great compromise between the worlds of performance and drivability.
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